grand canyon.

há uns anos, disseram-me que no grand canyon se sentia a presença de deus. não pude perceber o que seria isso dada a minha tradição intelectual mas de algum modo suspeitei que se tratava de uma paisagem que nos remete à insignificância, vistas que de inimagináveis que são, despoletam uma contemplação ímpar do nosso lugar no meio, da nossa condição mortal e que nos afectam profundamente.

o que eu senti foi uma adoração informada, uma emoção imensa ao apreciar o trabalho de um rio que lentamente escava a rocha, acha o seu caminho e continua a correr indiferente para um oceano longínquo, pacífico.


o grand canyon tem quase 450km de comprimento, 15km de largura média e chega aos 1800 metros de profundidade. quem desce até ao rio colorado verá expostos cerca de 17 milhões de história geológica.

minudências.

meteor crater.

50,000 years ago a meteorite of approximately 50 meters struck these plains at about 12 kilometers per second. this is the result.


the visit is quite interesting and full of information.
lesson #1: if you happened to see such a thing try to stay away unless you want to be vaporized.
lesson #2: use your coupon to get a free cookie at subway’s
lesson #3: if you must see the impact closely, bring sun glasses or old x-rays exams. i hear it’s a blast.
lesson #4: the indians knew an object had fallen from the sky before geologists. they just didn’t know when, how, why or the color of the lump. geologists said: it fell in late afternoon, just as the moon was rising; it was black and heavy.
lesson #5: before you leave don’t forget to refuel with a discounted price.
lesson#6: mr franklin was the first one to find it. he called it franklin’s hole. what a self-centered prick. he wants a hole this big only to himself!!!

on the way to the grand canyon – base camp

everything went great since i got to flagstaff, arizona. the temperature dropped a bit and immediately after i arrived thunderstorms and heavy rain came about. the streets have that touristy feel with inklings of european mountain resorts. there is a good proportion of freaks and alternative people hanging around. trains cross the city centre often enough to see people waiting for the endless chain of wagons and engines pass by and disappear in the mist.

trying to get something to eat, i googled “best burger flagstaff”. arriving at the place i couldn’t believe they were playing arcade fire’s last album that i had been listening on repeat driving from albuquerque.

how is it going, the guy asked, great, i replied, wonderful in fact, best music ever in a burger shack, saw the guys in nyc a couple of weeks ago, he proudly added. what are you having, whatever you suggest, i cried for help. everything on the menu is delicious, bring me the spicy model then. drink? beer, i asked shyly.

dazed by the music and by the deliciously locally brewed in california beer, got served the burger on a bed of homemade fries and salad. you smell so great, the waitress said apologizing right after. new ck summer fragrance, i humbly confessed, goes well with this oregano scent you brought me.


next day at the basement bbq. what are you having?, the waiter kid asked. without me responding, he added, nice shirt!, where did you get that?, london, i said, with an unintended bragging about my cosmopolitan habits. cool, gotta go there then.

people seem to like me in flagstaff, arizona. and i like it here.

on the way to the grand canyon – first days

just landed in albuquerque, decided to get a car and drive west. that’s pretty west already, so you say, but the fact is that the land is endless, miles and miles of pure loneliness, cruise control on 75 and no curves to distract you, just asphalt, dark, empty and boiling. from here to the sea await 1000 long miles of interstate roads.

tired of driving, stopped at the city called gallup, new mexico. is it by far the most desolate place i’ve seen in a long time. walmarts and fast food joints are planted everywhere you look. people are poor, unemployed and cranky. kids are fat and constantly screaming for a soda refill. supermarkets didn’t have any decent fruit and the cleanest place i could find to eat in town was the subway, unexpectedly open 24 hours. didn’t see any teenagers, bars or action besides loud cars passing by.

as i left, took a picture of an three-mile train. it’s just like the city: uninteresting, slow and boring.


in three words: don’t go, EVER.